Chippewa Glossary

Chippewa® Terminology Glossary

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American Bison

This leather features dark and light markings which resemble tie-dye patterns. Top portion of leather is removed from underlying layers for lighter weight then twisted to form creases. While it is twisted, dye is run through it to create tie-dye patterns. (return to top)





Bay/Apache Upper

This leather is 5 to 5.5 oz with a high level of wax and oil applied during the tanning process. Bay Apache is a light brown or tan color leather. (return to top)



Briar Pitstop

This leather has a lot of waxes and oils that are applied during the tanning process. The concentration of the oils and waxes in this leather make it "explosive" meaning that it has a lot of "pullup". This can be seen by folding the leather tightly, as this happens, the oils move around inside the leather creating a color change. The color returns after the leather is returned to the original shape. (return to top)





Cambrelle® Vamp Lining

High quality lining material is so efficient at moisture management that it absorbs three-and-a-half times its own weight in moisture to keep the foot cooler, drier, and more comfortable. Cambrelle" also allows air to circulate and adds cushioning. As it is so effective at dispersing moisture, the lining also helps to prevent staining of the upper caused by excess moisture and prevents the build up of bacteria that can cause mildew, rot and odor. (return to top)





Drill Vamp Lining

Drill is the type of material that is used in the vamp lining. It is a cotton type material that is used in basic footwear. (return to top)





Electrical Hazard Rated

Electrical Hazard ratings are attained by sending three pair of boots to an independent testing facility to be tested. There are standards that have been set up by the ANSI committee that the boots have to meet. The EH rating indicated that the boots will protect the wearer from electrical hazards coming from the bottom of the boot in case they step on a live wire or current. This protection is only for voltage up to a certain level. EH rated boots must have a safety toe cap. (return to top)






Goodyear welt

The Goodyear welt is a method of attaching the sole of a shoe to the upper. This currently used method is built upon the earlier inventive work of shoe manufacturer Christian Dancel (1847-1898). The upper is drawn over the last and held temporarily whilst a strip of leather (the welt) is stitched to the upper and inner sole. The sole is hand-stitched through the Welt to complete the process. This construction allows multiple sole replacements, extending the life of the footwear.(Source:
This process is Chippewa's strength and forte. Not only does this construction allow you to repair and resole your boots, lateral support is second to none. Leather welts are very difficult to twist and this lateral support is especially important on uneven terrain. Leather welt construction extends the life of the boot as the leather expands and contracts with changes in temperature, decreasing the potential of splitting and breaking. (return to top)



Goodyear Leather Storm Welt

This welt has simply adds a bead to prevent dust particles and other material from getting inside the boot at the welt line. This is usually used in heavy duty footwear. (return to top)







The unit of measure for leather sole thickness. One iron equals 1/48 inch. (return to top)












Leather with dark top and light base which gives two-tone effect when stretched. (return to top)






Removable Orthotic Insole

This insole re-aligns the foot and ankle bones, distributes weight (which reduces pressure spots), and provides some shock absorption. (return to top)





Steel Shank

The steel shank is a piece of steel that is about 1. wide and about 4. long that is placed in the boot during the bottoming process in manufacturing. It runs from heel to toe and is place in the boot starting at the heel and goes towards the toe. Boots with steel shanks are more rugged and durable than boots with fiberglass or plastic shanks. The shankpiece reinforces the waist of the shoe and prevents it from collapsing or distorting in wear. The contour of the shank is determined by heel height. Shoes with low heels or wedged soles do not require a shank because the torque between the rear and forefoot does not distort the shoe. (return to top)





Texon® Insole

Texon® is a breathable material that is flexible and durable developed especially for use in footwear. It is used on the highest quality footwear. (return to top)




A manmade microfiber created by 3M that traps insulating air to keep you warmer. It is non-bulky, lightweight, compact resistant and durable. Warmer than foam, felt, pile for the same thickness, it insulates under damp conditions absorbing less than 1% of its weight in water and dries quickly. (return to top)





Upper Leather

Chippewa leathers are heavy (generally 6 ounces) and superior for work or casual wear. They usually have 25% oil and wax content and are hot stuffed. This means heating the leather to 180 degrees (to open pores) before applying the oil and wax, then tumbling in large wooden drums. This process permeates the leather with natural conditions that maintain the look of the leather over its lifetime. Regular conditioning maintains suppleness and natural beauty. (return to top)






The vamp covers the top of the foot (includes the tongue piece) and toes. The vamp is often made of more than one piece, creating a decorative pattern. There are various types of vamps suited to different styles of boots. In quality footwear, the vamps are lined to enhance comfort and durability. (return to top)




In 1935, Vitale Bramani led an expedition into the Italian Alps. The climber used heavy, hobnailed boots for the approach, then switched to thin-soled rock climbing boots for the assault. These climbing boots proved fatal when the expedition was hit by thick fog and a blizzard. Six climbers died from frostbite and exposure. This tragic experience drove Bramani to created and patent an all-purpose climbing sole, one that was lightweight, long-wearing and flexible. He developed rubber compounds with excellent traction and high resistance to abrasion, and a new lug sole and called it Vibram, after his own name. Vibram soles have gone on to conquer Mt. Everest and to become a legend throughout the world. Yet, the search for better soling products has never stopped. Vibram soles are now found not only on boots, but on a wide range of fine casual, service and dress footwear. Look for the distinctive Vibram octagon with the Vibram name inside; it's the symbol of excellence. Today, the Vibram brand is recognized worldwide as the leader in high performance soling products for outdoor, dress casual and service footwear. (return to top)






A welt is a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that is stitched to the upper and insole of a shoe, as an attach-point for the sole. The space enclosed by the welt is then filled with cork or some other filler material (usually either porous or perforated, for breathability), and the outsole is both cemented and stitched to the welt. This process of making shoes is referred to as Goodyear Welt construction, as the machinery used for the process was invented by the son of Charles Goodyear. Shoes with other types of construction may also have welts for finished appearance, but they generally serve little or no structural purpose. (Source: (return to top)